F-6C Mustang Expert Set

Arma Hobby kit review

Fans of 1:72 scale Mustangs should be in good mood – Arma Hobby is consistently releasing new versions of its still quite fresh kit. This time the F-6C reconnaissance variant hit the stores – let's see what's inside.

Disclaimer

The review sample was kindly provided by the manufacturer. Thanks, Arma Hobby.

The box

“Expert Set” with catalogue number 70040 comes in a traditional, side-opening box with a quite nice illustration on the front.

Inside are two injection-moulded sprues made of light grey plastic, one transparent, a small sheet of self-adhesive masks, an even smaller piece with photo-etched parts, a large sheet of decals and an instruction booklet.

Which is very much similar to the previous P-51 kits released by AH (also reviewed here – both the “Expert Set” and the “Model Kit” edition).

Plastic

Starting with the fuselage, which in its two-piece form occupies the largest sprue of the kit.

The clearly defined grid of delicate, recessed panel lines makes a very good first impression, which is slightly spoiled by the manufacturer's approach to the riveting. Details of this nature can be found only in selected areas of the model and there is only a handful of them on the fuselage.

Lots more access panels pins and details of this type, quite fine by the way, most of which have gathered in the engine cowling area. Sharp inspection panels, visible in somewhat problematic areas, also draw attention.

Some shortcomings are also present, like the not connected panel lines just behind the wing-fuselage fairing. On both sides.

There is some unnecessary asymmetry as well – look at the bottom air intake cover, where on one side there is a panel line, but on the other isn’t.

To discuss other imperfections, one must first take a look at the interior of the fuselage, which is by no means empty.

The internal structure is indicated in the tailwheel bay area.

The additional fragment is modelled together with the bay covers (parts 23 and 24). The wheel itself (25), moulded with the strut, looks quite nice.

Cockpit area features a fuselage structure extending into the radio compartment and equipment details reproduced directly on the inner surfaces.

On the left side those are supplemented by a module containing such things as trim controls and landing gear release levers (4), and a tiny engine control panel with levers (6).

On the right side only the oxygen installation (3) is attached separately, as there are more details reproduced directly on the fuselage part.

Which unfortunately leads to minor sinkmarks, also visible on the external surface.

This problem occurs only on one side of the body. On the left half (where there is far less detail inside) the flaws are absent.

Looking at the interior one cannot help but notice the strange indentations in the rear part of the fuselage. Those are the places where it is necessary to modify the part, if for example you want to make a Mustang with a dorsal fin in front of the vertical stabilizer.

Because the latter, designed as a whole with the rudder, is available in two versions (by the way, I would like to draw your attention to the delicate, raised rivets in the lower part of this element – keeping those intact will be quite a challenge, due to the proximity of the inlet channel).

Versions that fit the associated horizontal stabilisers, which are also integrated with the corresponding control surfaces. We have a variant with a fin.

And without this element. In both cases the designer forgot to make some elevator balance lines thicker – just compare it with the vertical stabilizer.

Another signs of fuselage versatility are the openings in the front section.

The correct panels should be glued into them, matching the particular machine. On the frames you will find three variants (13-18), but according to the instructions, in this edition (ie, using the box decals) only one of them should be taken into account.

Some of the painting options provided also require the oil breathing exit hole to be drilled – two possible positions are marked on the inside of the fuselage left half (one a little more, the other a little less).

The selected markings will also determine the engine exhausts used. We get two variants in the set, both of which will look better with drilled ends.

Choices also await us in the cabin, which is supported by a pretty nice looking floor. What's interesting is that the underside of the part features not only ejector pins marks, but also some details visible in the finished miniature through the landing gear bay.

The kit includes two pilot’s seat variants – one-piece Schick-Johnson type (1).

And a Warren McArthur one, consisting of two elements (2, 3), which should be used with all kit painting options.

By mounting it on a frame with armour plate (9, 10).

The control stick (30), which looks quite good in its plastic form, will also come in handy.

Meanwhile the instrument panel causes some mixed feelings. On the one hand, the surface details are very nice; on the other, the central part has been reproduced as raised, while it is actually located deeper than the surrounding surface.

If you are O.K. with that, you can insert the panel into the cover (6) – pins and slots on both parts will ensure that it is seated correctly.

The rectangular socket at the back of the board is intended for the part with rudder controls (4), which draws attention with a small North American Aviation logo and the inscription "DEPRESS PEDAL TO RELEASE PARKING BRAKE", or at least something quite similar.

Space behind the pilot's seat won’t be empty – you can install there an additional fuel tank (12) used in some machines, supplemented with an indicator (13).

Radio equipment rack (14) goes just above it.

The equipment itself (7, 8, 15, 16), in some cases (16) also suffering from sinkmarks, can be installed in various configurations.

Depending on the version chosen, you should be interested in the different antennas (33, 34, 36), mounted (or not) on the top of the fuselage.

In the case of the radio range finder, a hole needs to be made in the fuselage (notch on the inside) and the base of the antenna (35) placed in it.

Before closing the fuselage, the underside air intake and oil cooler need to be addressed. For reconnaissance Mustangs, the intake ceiling needs to be modified by cutting a hole in its rear (and installing the appropriate “glass” there).

The radiator (29) looks very nice, at least from one side (according to the instructions that's the rear). A photo-etched part was provided for the hollow front.

Only after gluing the bottom part (30), the whole thing can be enclosed in the fuselage.

Then at least partially obstructed with suitable flaps (31, 32).

Front of the inlet is supplied as a separate piece (27). The same goes for the carburettor intake opening (36), located under the propeller.

Propeller which you get in one-piece form, so you won't have to worry about the correct positioning of the blades.

At the back, you will find the tabs that correspond with the slots at the base of the spinner (20).

Spinner, which also has adequate features.

The propeller's rotation is to be ensured by a small component (22) which should be mounted without glue.

Let's move on to the wing which is divided into two parts. The upper surfaces feature, just like the fuselage, fine panel lines, some rivets and other recessed details.

The bottom surfaces look similar, except that there is far more rivets here.

Particularly in the middle section, where an attempt has been made to show the worn down, corrugated plating, which doesn't quite convince me.

It looks better on the flaps which are made as separate parts, where you can see both recessed and raised rivets.

I don't like at all how the position and signal lights (the three on the underside of the wing) have been reproduced. Transparent elements would be much more appropriate here.

Some mixed feelings are caused by the ceiling of the main landing gear bay, moulded on the inside of the upper half of the wing. On the one hand very nice, delicate, raised rivets. On the other, you can see traces left around the holes (and not only here), probably by milling cutter.

The bay will be built using several other parts (26, 27, 28, 29), also nicely riveted.

Similar treatment was given to the bay inner covers, at least on one side.

Outer ones on the other hand are far less interesting.

Just like the landing gears struts.

On which of course the wheels will be placed – which at first glance looks very nice, although it is a pity that there is only one version. It gets worse when you start looking at them more closely. The fact that the inscriptions (“GoodYear”) on one of the wheels are a mirror image is a detail that is not easy to see anyway.

A more serious problem is the tyre tread with mismatched lines in the middle.

As a consolation, there is a relatively wide range of available loadout, mounted on the underwing pylons.

Two types of additional fuel tanks.

And 250lb bombs.

While on the subject of armament, the wing guns with barrels designed as one-piece modules (25) should also be mentioned. On the inner surface of the wing's lower part there are suitable slots for them.

A few minor details remained, such as the Pitot tube (30) mounted under the right wing, or the rails for the sliding part of the cockpit cover (37, 38), which must be trimmed if a closed configuration is chosen.

And while we're on the subject of canopy…

Transparencies

Transparent elements are on the third, smallest, plastic sprue of the set, dominated by the cockpit glazing. The windscreen has been designed with a section of fuselage in front of it, which should make it easier to cleanly glue it into place.

The moveable section is available in several variants. Early type in closed position.

The same, but opened, where the tilted upper segment was merged with the side window.

And the Malcolm type, in two versions – depending on whether you want to have the cover in the open or closed position.

There are also side windows with a thin border (which does not change the fact that you have to be very careful when sticking them in).

And some smaller details, such as the window for the photo compartment.

The multitude of available options and the protection of the sprue with an additional ziplock bag (at last) are welcome. The best thing, however, is the excellent transparency of the thin elements. It is just a pity that there was no place here for the position and signal light

Masks

The included small sheet of self-adhesive masks, cut in the well-known and liked Japanese yellow tape, will help us with painting the canopy and landing gear wheels.

However, the manufacturer's suggestion of scribing the panel lines using a relatively soft tape does not seem to be the best idea if you ask me.

PE

Photo etched stencils featured on a small sheet will work much better in this role.

Some additional details, such as the pilot's belts and the mesh for the underbody oil cooler, were also included.

Decals

The sizeable decal sheet included in the kit was traditionally printed by the Polish Techmod, which did not disappoint.

It is hard to find any flaws here.

The colours are uniform and even the smallest details are clear.

The striking black and yellow lightning bolts for one of the Mustangs were prepared as one piece. However, there are also guide lines on the sheet, according to which the decal can be cut and applied to the model, positioning the fragments by the panel lines (to which the cuts correspond).

Many of the stencils (two sets given), can be easily read. This includes those for bombs and additional fuel tanks, which are also provided.

There are also flight instruments here as well as other items for cabin interior, including markings for the radio equipment.

Everything looks really excellent. Except maybe the belts, which I still find rather unappealing.

Manual

The booklet containing tips on building the model represents a typical style of this manufacturer. Clear, contour drawings with colours indicating painting of particular surfaces.

Although the sheer volume of information in some places can be slightly overwhelming.

The renderings and numerous comments can be helpful at critical points of construction.

Traditionally the table of paints needed includes numbers from Hataka (Orange Line), AK Interactive (Real Colors), Lifecolor, AMMO, Humbrol, Vallejo and Tamiya.

The paint schemes, as usual in colour, also include directions for the arrangement of the main markings.

Stencils were this time moved to a separate drawing.

Painting options

Four profiles on the back of the box announce the paint options which goes with the kit.

F-6C-10-NT Mustang, 44-10889/R7-N, GR II.33 Savoie, French Air Forces, April-May 1945.

Kit painting option (Arma Hobby)

F-6C-1-NA Mustang, 43-12400/ZM-O, pilot: Cpt. E.B. “Blackie” Travis, 12th Tactical Reconnaissance Squadron, 67th Tactical Reconnaissance Group, Middle Wallop, England, spring 1944.

Kit painting option (Arma Hobby)

F-6C-5-NT Mustang, 42-103604/600, pilot: Maj. E.O. McComas, 118th Tactical Reconnaissance Squadron, 23rd Fighter Group, Chengkung China, December 1944.

Kit painting option (Arma Hobby)

F-6C-1-NA Mustang, 43-12404/266, 26th Fighter Squadron, 51st Fighter Group, China 1944-45.

Kit painting option (Arma Hobby)

Looking through the manual, however, you will come across two more additional paint schemes.

Those are alternative versions of the “standard” markings – machine from a different period of service (bonus #5) and another aircraft from the same unit (bonus #6).

Summary

The new F-6C released by AH is definitely a kit worth consideration. Maybe the reconnaissance Mustangs are not the most popular subject, but the provided paint schemes look quite interesting, and you can alternatively build a standard P-51B/C or Mustang Mk.III from the kit (assuming you have the right decals of course).

Some minor improvements over the initial release are appreciated, like the return of Japanese Kabuki paper for masks, and putting a stencil for scribing panel lines on the photo-etched sheet.

I like it.

MMXXII
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